An Evening at Tokyo’s Tori no Ichi
Decorated kumade rakes piled high, lanterns glowing in the night. The second Tori no Ichi of 2026 is on November 19. Will you warm up with oden in Asakusa or stop for a drink after work in Shinjuku? Choose your neighborhood and plan your first visit to the festival.
November nights still have somewhere to take you
After dinner, it can feel a little too early to head straight back to your hotel. On a November night like that, keep Tori no Ichi in mind. People gather to pray for prosperous businesses and the safety of their families, and to choose a decorated kumade rake. Each stall displays rakes decorated with charms such as okame masks, gold coins, and ears of rice. The longer you look, the more each one seems to have its own character.
If it’s your first time, you don’t need to plan on buying a large rake. Stop to admire a decoration that catches your eye, or listen to the rhythmic clapping that follows a successful sale. Even without a shopping list, you’ll see a side of the city you don’t usually encounter. Just remember that the shrine grounds and surrounding streets get crowded. Make room for both taking photos and stepping aside to let others pass.
This guide focuses on the upcoming second festival day and two ways to spend the evening, in Asakusa and Shinjuku. Rather than trying to visit both in one night, decide first what you’d like to eat and which area will make getting back easiest. Spending the evening in one neighborhood, including time for a meal, makes for a more comfortable first visit.
The next festival day is November 19
There are two Tori no Ichi festivals in 2026. The first, on Saturday, November 7, has passed; the next is the second festival day, Thursday, November 19. There is no third festival day this year. Hanazono Shrine also holds an eve celebration on Wednesday, November 18.
| Venue | Upcoming dates | A note on opening hours |
|---|---|---|
| Asakusa: Ohtori Shrine and adjacent Chokokuji Temple | Thursday, November 19 | The Asakusa Tori no Ichi festival runs from midnight to midnight. Individual food stalls and kumade shops do not all keep the same hours. |
| Shinjuku: Hanazono Shrine | Eve celebration: Wednesday, November 18 / Main festival: Thursday, November 19 | There is an eve celebration as well as the main festival. Check the official announcements and on-site signs for stall opening and closing times and visitor routes. |
Don’t take “24 hours” for the Asakusa festival to mean that every shop is open all night. Chokokuji Temple’s guidance notes that some kumade shops do not serve customers in the early morning.
Asakusa or Shinjuku?
Choose based less on which is more famous and more on how you want to spend the time before and after the festival.
- 浅草
Take your time after an early dinner
- Walk around Iriya or Asakusa, then head to the festival after a warm meal. It’s easy to pair the evening with a stroll near Sensoji Temple, but the festival venue is a separate place from Sensoji. Allow time to get between them.
- 新宿
Drop by after shopping or work
- Start around Shinjuku-sanchome Station, stop for coffee or a set meal, then head to Hanazono Shrine. One advantage of Shinjuku is the option of going on November 18 for the eve celebration. It’s easier to get around if you plan dinner and your journey home on the east side of the station.
Check which Asakusa station you’re heading to
Search for “Asakusa” on a map and you might assume you’re heading to Sensoji Temple or Kaminarimon Gate. But Ohtori Shrine and Chokokuji Temple, the venues for Tori no Ichi, are in Senzoku, to the north. The two sites are next to each other, but Ohtori is a Shinto shrine and Chokokuji is a Buddhist temple. Check each site’s guidance for the appropriate etiquette when paying your respects.
Ohtori Shrine’s official directions say it’s about a seven-minute walk from Exit 3 of Iriya Station on the Hibiya Line, or about eight minutes from Asakusa Station on the Tsukuba Express. From Asakusa Station on the Tobu, Toei Asakusa, or Ginza Line, it’s about a 15-minute walk. There are several stations called Asakusa in different locations, so check the train line as well as the station name to avoid a detour. These are typical walking times; allow extra time for queues and follow any traffic guidance on the day.
If you’re coming from a stroll around Sensoji Temple, take your time walking north past the shopfronts instead of packing too much into your schedule. If you have a dinner reservation, decide whether to visit the festival or eat first. It can be hard to predict how long it will take to enter the grounds on a busy night, so having dinner first can make it easier to enjoy the walk without watching the clock.
The festival runs throughout November 19 in Asakusa, but your ideal arrival time depends on whether you want to see the lively evening crowds or choose a kumade at a quieter pace. Visiting during the day is also an option. Even late at night, it may not be quiet, and there will be fewer places to eat and fewer trains home. Plan your visit around the time you need to get back, rather than deciding how long to stay based only on the photo opportunities.
In Shinjuku, you can go on the eve
Hanazono Shrine is at 5-17-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku City. The Shinjuku Convention & Visitors Bureau says it’s a three-minute walk from Shinjuku-sanchome Station and seven minutes from the east exit of Shinjuku Station. Even when the station is nearby, crowds can make progress slower than usual. Arrange to meet at an easy-to-find spot in or around the station rather than trying to find each other inside the shrine grounds.
The second festival day is Thursday, November 19, and the eve celebration is on Wednesday, November 18. If you’re traveling and can’t stay until the 19th, the previous evening is another option. If you’re stopping by after shopping, try to travel light before adding a large bag to your load. If you might buy a kumade, plan for one more thing to carry.
At the venue, the lines to pay respects, people browsing kumade, and visitors ordering from food stalls all share the same space. If you spot a stall you like, don’t cut across the crowd to reach it; follow the signs and check where the line ends. There’s no need to push further in to shop or take photos when it’s busy. Check the signs near the entrance and decide how far you’re comfortable walking that evening.
If you’re going after dinner, it can be fun to have a proper meal first and pick just one treat from the food stalls. If you want to sample several stalls, keep dinner light before you go. However, stalls and dishes shown in photos may not be there this year. Check the offerings and prices on site, then choose what you’d most like to eat.
It’s fine to start with a small kumade
A kumade at Tori no Ichi is a lucky charm said to rake in good fortune. Shaped like a traditional agricultural rake, it’s decorated with charms that represent people’s wishes. You don’t have to be a business owner to buy one. Browse for a size that would look at home where you live, or an okame mask with a face you like. Bigger isn’t necessarily better; it helps to picture where you’ll display it once you’ve carried it home.
If you plan to buy one, decide on a budget before you browse. Ohtori Shrine’s guidance explains that the price can vary depending on the type and number of decorations, even for rakes of the same size. Point to one you like and ask the price, then confirm the total before paying. Before you buy, ask about packing and carrying it, including whether it will fit in your luggage and how the handle and decorations will be protected.
You may hear about bargaining and goshugi, a customary extra payment offered to the seller when buying a kumade. On your first visit, you don’t need to recreate the whole exchange perfectly. Chokokuji Temple’s FAQ explains that goshugi is a custom, not a requirement. Ask what any extra amount is for and make sure you’re happy with the total before buying.
The rhythmic clapping after a sale is another familiar sight at the festival. If you’d like to take a close-up photo, ask the shopkeeper and the people involved first. Don’t put your camera into the middle of a transaction or block the walkway while waiting for a shot. You can take in the atmosphere just as well from a little farther away.
Find a place to sit before or after the festival
Enjoy browsing the food stalls, but also leave yourself time to sit down for a proper meal. It makes for a more comfortable evening when the temperature drops. Here are a meal option in Asakusa and a restaurant and cafe in Shinjuku.
Have an early dinner at Asakusa Otafuku
If you’d like something warm before heading to the festival in Asakusa, consider Asakusa Otafuku at 1-6-2 Senzoku. The restaurant’s official website announces special hours for November 19, the day of Tori no Ichi: 4:00–11:00 p.m., with last orders at 10:00 p.m. It opens earlier than its usual 5:00 p.m. start, making it a good option for dinner before the festival.
The restaurant’s information lists a separate ¥500 seating charge. Reservations are available for a table only, an oden platter, or a course, so check what you’ve booked. A table and entry at a particular time are not guaranteed on the day. If you want to walk around after dinner, mention your plans when booking and choose a time that lets you eat without rushing.
November 19, 4:00–11:00 p.m. / Last orders 10:00 p.m. · 1-6-2 Senzoku
Have a set meal before visiting Hanazono Shrine
In Shinjuku, you may want a proper meal before heading to the festival. Ootoya Shinjuku East Exit Chuo-dori is on the second floor of the Peace Building at 3-34-11 Shinjuku. It’s not right next to Hanazono Shrine, but it’s a convenient option for combining dinner and the festival on the east side of the station.
The official restaurant listing gives its hours as 10:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m., with last orders at 10:30 p.m., 30 minutes before closing. The restaurant is listed as non-smoking. If you’re planning to eat on your way back, aim to arrive in time to order rather than simply before closing. If there’s a wait, factor that in too.
10:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m. / Last orders 10:30 p.m. · 2nd floor, 3-34-11 Shinjuku
Take an afternoon break at Lemon on the 19th
If you’d like to warm up your hands before the festival, stop at Coffee Lounge Lemon. It’s in Park City 3 at 3-14-24 Shinjuku, and serves siphon-brewed coffee and espresso-based drinks. It doesn’t stay open late, so think of it as a place to rest before the festival, rather than a second stop after it.
Its hours are 11:30 a.m.–7:00 p.m., with last orders at 6:30 p.m. The cafe’s official November schedule lists Wednesday, November 18 as a closing day, so it isn’t an option for the eve celebration. If you plan to visit on the afternoon of Thursday, November 19, check the day’s latest information before setting out. Take a breather in the non-smoking cafe, then get ready to head back outside.
11:30 a.m.–7:00 p.m. / Last orders 6:30 p.m. · Closed November 18
When eating as you go, plan where to stop
If you buy something from a food stall, check the price and quantity before you take it. Carrying food in one hand and a drink or kumade in the other can make even getting your wallet out surprisingly difficult. Keep a little cash or some coins somewhere easy to reach, but ask each stall which payment methods it accepts. Don’t assume the whole venue uses the same system.
When it’s time to eat, move to a place the stall recommends or somewhere you won’t block the way. Don’t join the flow of people while carrying hot food or soup; finish eating before heading to the next stall. Dispose of packaging and containers as directed by the vendor. If you can’t find a collection point, bring a small bag so you can carry your rubbish with you.
Among the treats Ohtori Shrine highlights for Tori no Ichi is kirizansho, a strip-shaped sweet made with rice flour, sugar, and Japanese pepper. Looking for seasonal treats like this amid the brightly decorated kumade is part of the fun. Check what’s available on the day and where it’s being sold; if you find some, ask what’s in it and how best to carry it.
Plan your journey home before the lights go out
With the festival lights glowing, it can feel as if the night will go on forever. But the festival’s opening hours and train schedules are two different things. Check the last connections to your accommodation in advance, and allow time to leave the queue and walk to the station. Keep your route home and your hotel address somewhere handy, and save enough battery to get back.
Choose your clothes for the time you’ll spend standing around, not just for walking. A layer that’s easy to put on and take off, and comfortable shoes, make it easier to adjust. If rain is possible, check the forecast and official announcements before you leave. Packing so you won’t need to spread out bags or an umbrella in a crowd makes things easier for you and those around you.
If you’re with someone, agree on where to meet if you get separated before entering the grounds. If you’re with young children or anyone who finds it difficult to stand for a long time, keep your plans flexible and don’t try to see everything. Having a place in mind to eat or rest on the way back can also make it easier to decide when to leave the festival.
Whether you come away with a kumade or simply take in the lights before heading home, there’s no single right way to enjoy Tori no Ichi. If you get cold, find something warm to eat; if you start thinking about the journey back, make your way to the station. You may find good fortune in a night that felt easy to enjoy, or in getting home laughing with the people you came with.
Official information and photo credits
This guide was edited after cross-checking official sources; it is not based on on-site reporting or food tastings. Festival dates and business details were checked on November 11, 2026. Check the latest official announcements before you set out. Festival photos are archival images from 2013 and 2023, not photos from 2026. Each photo is credited with its photographer, source, and license, and has been resized or cropped for display. Otafuku’s photos are credited to the official provider.
- Ohtori Shrine: 2026 festival dates and ceremonies
- Ohtori Shrine: directions from Iriya, Asakusa, and other stations
- Ohtori Shrine: notes on kumade and kirizansho
- Chokokuji Temple: stall hours and kumade shopping FAQ
- Chokokuji Temple: Asakusa Tori no Ichi and location
- Shinjuku Convention & Visitors Bureau: Hanazono Shrine’s 2026 Tori no Ichi
- Otafuku: special opening hours on November 19
- Otafuku: restaurant information and seating charge
- Otafuku: reservation options
- Ootoya: Shinjuku East Exit Chuo-dori location
- Coffee Lounge Lemon: cafe and drinks
- Coffee Lounge Lemon: hours and last orders
- Coffee Lounge Lemon: November 2026 opening schedule
